Tuscany, people imagine the breathtaking landscape, hills by hills under the strong Tuscany sun, however, Tuscany also embraces “salty water” life.
Before the trip to Malta, we drove up to Tuscany seaside for a friend’s birthday party on the beach. Taking the chance, we revisited Porto Santo Stefano and filled up a bit our bucket list near Albinia. I have visited Porto St.Stefano in January this year, when there is zero tourists and the shops and restaurants were barely open. this time, I see the real side of it. Tuscany, people imagine the breathtaking landscape, hills by hills under the strong Tuscany sun, however, Tuscany also embraces “salty water” life. The area near Albinia, Orbetello and Porto Santo Stefano, is where you find a less-crowded, more relaxing seaside holiday (comparing to Positano, Capri or Puglia).
On the lean land from Albinia to Porto Santo Stefano, a few beach clubs and camping villages stretch out. We spent our wonderful sunset party at Tuscany Bay and another relaxing morning at Bagno Nettura. I called that morning, “Do Nothing”, in a typical Italian way. Leaving for Rome in the early afternoon, basically we only have one-time chance to try out local restaurant, and therefore, we took it in Porto Santo Stefano. One of the biggest advantage of traveling in off-season is, we can easily find a parking. We arrived late (2.30pm around – before restaurant break), the seaside didn’t give us much choice for a decent restaurant option but just bars. Luckily, one of our on-the-list restaurants, Da Orlando, was remaining. As usual, we over-ordered and over eaten! One of the best discovery during our lunch is, I locked the perfect spot to dive into sea – perfectly demonstrated by that group of local boys jumping and climbing non-stop down there. Our round bellies was rescued by the Fort Spanish (rock tower or castle as you wish to call, but it would be more fit to a facility built on the sea city for a defence towards sea enemies in the past), burned us a bit calories. We drunk enough sea view from there, and “fed” well by the little museum. Pretty interesting to have a look!
We set ourselves on the way back around 6pm. Indeed, it’s just another stress-free and spontaneous weekend trip. I’ll write some basic information about where we stay, relax and eat. Hope my sharing inspire you for your next trip!
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The Area
Albinia or Orbetello is the last entrance on the mainland to the island, where holds Porto St.Stephano and a few others. In summer, this area will be occupied by mostly locals or European tourists, families and group tourists. There are hiking trails, mountain or flat roads for cycling, beaches to relax, clear sea to swim; snorkelling and diving are possible, and you can take a ferry (also with your car) to more island adventure in Tuscany.
How To Reach
We went by car, 2 to 2.5 hours driving from Rome, straight from Lazio to Tuscany on E80 with 90km/hour limitation, which means, a free way. Not recommending trains as too much changes, but if you really want, I think train to Orbetello would be easier.
Where To Stay
Da Renato
A low budget and comfortable enough hotel near the superway. Lovely reception connected to their pizzeria, where you’ll have breakfast too. The rooms are clean, simple and spacious, and as usual, you should bring your own toiletries.
Da Renato
Address: SS AURELIA KM 150, N. 177, 58015 Albinia GR
Price: €€
Service: ♥♥♥♥♥
Room: ♥♥♥
Payment: Cash / Credit Card
Where To Go
Tuscany bay
The famous beach club slash party spot with an all-white theme, white watch-tower, white umbrellas and white sofas on the beach! The sunset there was awesome, where I got my beloved sunset shoot. Food at the bar side, had a focus on seafood and light dishes, but they do have a pizzeria on the beach, where a serious pizza can be offered.
Tuscany Bay
Address: Piazzale dei Rioni, 22, Porto Santo Stefano GR
Price: €€€
Service: ♥♥♥♥
Environment: ♥♥♥♥♥
Payment: Cash / Credit Card
Bagno Nettura
A dress-down beach club, classic stripe umbrellas (like the ones you see from Positano), simple bar with freshness and pizza. In the off-season, we paid only €18 for 2 umbrellas and parking (costs €5). The place is lovely and quiet with soft sands. The kids love to rush into the sea anyways, while I held my feet as I’m not a person in passion with sea water mixed with sands. Therefore it brings me to talk about in next row.
Bagno Nettura
Address: Piazzale dei Rioni, 22, Porto Santo Stefano GR
Price: €
Service: ♥♥♥
Environment: ♥♥♥
Payment: Cash / Credit Card
The Secret Spot For Crystal Clear Sea
If you don’t like to swim in the sea water mixed sands, I’ll suggest the hidden location next to Hotel Caletta Beach Club. There, you can dive straightly into crystal blue water or slide in from the flat rocks. During our nearly 2 hour slow lunch, the local kids repeated their jumps almost a thousand times!
Fort Spanish (Fortezza Spagnola)
Dry option! Waking up to the top, and a ticket of €2 , you will have a peaceful blue view as well as knowing the trading histories nearly 1000 year ago in this sea area.
Where To Eat
Trattoria Lo Sconciglio
We didn’t make it this time as it’s closing for afternoon break, however, I definitely recommend it. We visited this place in winter spontaneously, and we witnessed how popular it is among locals in the coldest days! Husband as restaurant manager, wife as chef, another family business, and a Sicilian wife! The way of dining is very causal and friendly as we were suggested by the manager to a selection of starters with seasonal ingredients, followed by a few main dishes with seasonal fish too! I landed my eyes on the beautiful fish pastas on the neighbour table – bad habit I know – and I must go back to try them all!
Trattoria Lo Sconciglio
Address: Piazzale dei Rioni, 22, Porto Santo Stefano GR
Taste: ♥♥♥♥
Price: €€€
Service: ♥♥♥♥
Environment: ♥♥♥
Payment: Cash / Credit Card
Da Orlando
Not with the best sea view but good enough, hidden and quiet with a more private atmosphere. The restaurant is decent and service is lovely! We ordered the fish salad starter collection which is designed for 2 persons, however, at the end, we’ve got 4 big dishes with marinated white fish (my favorite! beautiful, tender and lively texture), squid, octopus and even mussels!!! The clam spaghetti is with tradition but delicious enough with a twist of bottarga. My boyfriend got his light grilled swordfish. The bill is fair for this full table of fish dishes, while, probably the only negative point of mine is, it’s in general too salty.
Da Orlando
Address: Via F. Breschi, 3, 58019 Porto Santo Stefano GR
Taste: ♥♥♥
Price: €€€
Service: ♥♥♥♥
Environment: ♥♥♥
Payment: Cash / Credit Card
