Heart from my friend’s first suggestion of nearby city to be visited when I just ‘dismantled’ my luggages in Avignon, I grabbed my lightest handbag and jumped onto the train to Arles, a city in 20-minute train distance. Before I arrived, I have nothing knowledge about Arles, besides its story related to Roman Empire. Without even a map in my hands, I had this wonderful 3 hours in Arles.


阿维尼翁(Avignon)卸下行囊,背包旅馆里的年轻人就把附近的第二城市,阿尔勒(Arles)介绍给我,说是来到南法普罗旺斯区域,必定要走一走的地方。旅行本来就在于这份随性,随手抓上最轻的行囊便回到火车站。去的一路上倒是没多担心自己对20分钟后就要看到的城市完全陌生。手里连个地图都没有的我,意外得在这个旧罗马帝国城市找到珍贵的3小时。

If you only have 3 hours in Arles_les Arènes d'Arles

It was only 20 minutes by train to reach this city, where the Roman style and Van Gogh made this place famous. Without a map, the first impression this city gave to me was just amazing. It was like a wandering journey that you were back to ancient time as a stranger passing by. Each corner, each piece of stone, and even each strange face made me exciting and curious.


这座距离阿维尼翁20分钟火车路程的城市,曾是罗马帝国时期的商业中心城市,梵高也曾在这里旅居,留下包括《夜间露天咖啡室》等作品。这个古罗马风格的城市在傍晚的最后那3个小时里有着不同于南法和普罗旺斯的色彩斑斓和浪漫。在有些斑驳的城中随意走着,仿佛走入另一个时空。

If you only have 3 hours in Arles_beautiful street

Passing the ‘botanic’ lanes, discover your favourite colours and ‘footprints’ of Van Gogh

The train station was outside the old town, and followed the crowd, it was easy to enter the circular-shape city. Once bypassing the high stone city-wall, my eyes was widened. It was like a botanic garden in those little lanes, where the greens crawled over the buildings and the last sip of sunshine printed on the walls. The blue-printed window was lovely as well, and by chance, there were still two or three boutiques stayed open and the owners didn’t have the time to move the Van Gogh paintings back indoor. Get to the corner, on the Place du Forum, there is the famous The Café Terrace (Café Van Gogh).


穿过爬满绿衣的小巷子,发现自己最爱的颜色,寻找梵高的印迹

出火车站之后只需要一路跟着大家便已经来到城外。城市遵循着中世纪的建筑风格,环形围绕,一层层的向外扩张直到最外围的高墙。跨过高大的护城墙,便是典型的南法悠闲。小巷子很多,但我也乐在乱转悠。翠绿色的爬墙植物齐刷刷地爬满整面墙之外,还要来个“勾肩搭背”,实在是可爱。生活的惬意也能从一扇扇漆成亮蓝色的木门看出来。临近5点这个点,大部分的小铺都关了,不过也有几个爱拉家常的老板没来得及收铺,和隔壁餐厅的老板倒是聊的开心。走到街角处便是位于Place du Forum的著名咖啡馆(Café Van Gogh)

If you only have 3 hours in Arles_the stairs

If you only have 3 hours in Arles_les Arènes d'Arles

If you only have 3 hours in Arles_les Arènes d'Arles

Standing at the foot of Les Arènes d’Arles

The heritage city stayed with this ancient Les Arènes d’Arles until now. It was broken in some terms, and it was not like the famous one in Roman to be that magnificent. However, in the sunset lights and shadows, it still offered something deep into your heart, which I could imagine how amazing it would be in the old times, when Arles was still controlled by Roman Empire.


站在古罗马圆形竞技场(Les Arènes d’Arles)的脚下

直至今日,这座南法城市还保持着古罗马帝国的遗迹。破破烂烂之余,却一点不影响她的雄伟和那股气势。侥幸的是,来到她的脚下的时候,正当夕阳西下,半残的竞技场,一半在阴影里,一半在地中海猛烈的夕阳里,从橘色演变到鹅黄色。光和影之间的那些线条虽然有些风化的看不清楚了,但整体粗壮的架势还是让人不禁联想盛世之时的壮景。

If you only have 3 hours in Arles_the plaza

Be quiet at Place de la Republique

Walking forward from the mild slope into the city on higher hill-land, I found Place de la Republique and romansque Eglise St-Trophime. I had almost half an hour sitting at the stairs in the plaza, and waiting for the strong Southern France sunset moving from my toes to forehead. It was a moment of enjoy quiet.


在共和国广场(Place de la Republique)坐一会,享受城中的最后一束阳光

从竞技场一边的斜坡一直走上去便能到达共和国广场,古罗马特色的教堂(Eglise St-Trophime)已经关了,广场周围的商铺也大多都打烊了。广场上没有行色匆匆的当地人,反而三三两两的坐着一些跟我一样前来闲逛的游人。坐在楼前的阶梯上,我还特意挑了个面对夕阳的角度,静静地享受城中的这最后一道光束从脚趾都挪到头顶的感觉。

If you only have 3 hours in Arles_the river

End of the day, be chilled

Once the sun went to the back of the city line, the weather turned pretty chilled and windy. I was out of the old town already and seated at the riverbank of Rhône. The river was low but it was pretty active. Sometimes, my eyes even got too much by those jumping light reflection on the point of waves.


日落,罗纳河边有些凉

一旦夕阳跑到城市线后面,城里显得凉飕飕的。伴着阿尔勒的罗纳河一点都不平静,河面不断跃起跳出来的水花,河水急得很,夕阳下,波光凌凌的甚至有点刺眼。下一班回阿维尼翁的火车还有会才到站,我索性找了块隐蔽的地方坐下,享受在这个城市的最后一刻。

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